![]() ![]() If I was doing it in my home, I think I’d want to run the shop vac to help pick up that dust, or create a negative pressure situation to help reduce the dust.Īnd of course - don’t forget your PPE (safety glasses, mask/respirator, gloves, work boots, hard hat, hearing protection) - esp once you start working chest heigh & above you’re going to get pieces of plaster flying at your face or falling on your head, and I don’t even know how many nails or pieces of lath I had to pull out of my boot soles. We ran a big air cleaner when we were working, but I don’t know if it actually did much (granted the entire interior was being gutted so it was probably trying to bail out the Titanic with a tea cup). After you get a couple studs cleared off, either pull them all out or run the sawzall up & down the stud to cut them off. * Those little lath nails get left in the studs and are a real PITA - they snag on your shirt / belt / skin. * Every once in awhile take a break and sweep up all of the dust & small stuff accumulating on the floor - it’s a pain (and somewhat treacherous for your ankles) to keep stepping on. * Do a “section” (whatever feels like a reasonable area to you) of demo, then take a break from that to pickup and throw all the chunks in the garbage can, and drag the garbage can out to the dumpster when it’s about half full (or whatever you can handle based upon your personal size & strength - that shit is HEAVY!). * Then a flat bar or cat’s paw (nail puller) to pull out the lath pieces from the studs * I used a sawzall to cut the plaster & lath between studs * Use a big plastic garbage can right where you are working. Even the scrap bits that were too short to do anything useful with were good- as kindling.Dealt with this in a demo job recently - I found a couple of strategies reasonably effective for me: We have used them to build garden trellises and other crafty stuff. The plaster has to go to the dump, unfortunately, but the lath strips, if you save them into long enough pieces, can be useful. Even my professional nail gun wouldn't touch them. If the studs are hardwood like ours are, you'll be predrilling and screwing to get those 2x4's sistered on. That's too far for drywall for it to be stable and solid-feeling. To avoid this, remove the old trim before starting the project. When you install drywall over plaster, the added thickness of the drywall can dwarf the trim, making it look sunken and awkward. A lot of the older homes were built 24" on center. Typical door casing and window trim stick out anywhere from 1/4 inch to 5/8 inch beyond the wall surface to give the room a finished look. if your existing studs are further apart than 16" on center, then add in some studs between them. Sister some 2x4's onto the existing studs, and attach the drywall to those. It is an exercise in futility putting drywall on studs where plaster had been. Many nails would break off when I tried to extract them. I nicknamed it "The Big Ole Bust-It-Up Bar". ![]() Did I mention some of the boards have branches still sticking out of them? It really is like they chopped down whatever trees were there and made boards whatever size the trees were. Laths or lathes are narrow strips of timber nailed horizontally across the timber stud frame or ceiling joists and then coated in plaster to finish the wall. Most of the studs are hardwood and not any particular size. The basic cost to Remove Lath And Plaster is 4.13 - 8.42 per square foot in January 2024, but can vary significantly with site conditions and options. We bought a 150 year old pile of a house, which is partially drywall over log cabin, and partially plaster. "Also learned that the framing under plaster walls is not suitable for drywall." ![]()
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